Barcelona to Rome with stops in Palma de Mallorca, Marseille, Monte Carlo, Portofino, Livorno and Salerno. Before every cruise we go on I devour as many YouTube videos as I can find on the ship, and my recent sailing on Silver Ray was no exception. Yet prior to boarding I was a bit apprehensive as I never felt she “sparkled” appropriately in the videos….at least on camera. I’d soon find out……
PRE-CRUISE -
Our stay in Barcelona was fantastic (aside from the day-long downpour). The airport transfer was excellent - timely, clean, a gorgeous Mercedes sedan piloted by a friendly, personable driver. Our home base for that one night was the Majestic Hotel and Spa, located smack-dab in the belly of one of Barcelona’s more upscale shopping and entertainment districts, so the geography was solid as were the rooms, lobby and rooftop restaurant. Sagrada Familia tour, a martini at the world-renowned “Dry Martini,” lunch at The Cotton House’s Batuar, shopping at La Basilica Galleria, dinner at the Majestic’s rooftop restaurant…..Mother Nature aside, a near-perfect day by my account.
PRE-CRUISE GRADE: A
TRANSFER/EMBARKATION/THE SHIP -
Day two begins with a comfortable, well-organized group transfer to the port. Check-in on the ship is around noon, goes smoothly and that first sight of Silver Ray is breathtaking. Her lines are sleek and modern, her bow somewhat squared - almost like an ice-breaker - and her color scheme is a two-tone of grey-ish and white. Once inside I can plainly see that the aforementioned YouTube videos don’t do her justice. This is a modern, state-of-the-art, gorgeous ship with plenty to please the eyes and a plethora of restaurants, entertainment venues and outdoor spaces from which to choose.
The standouts for me -
The Marquee Restaurant
On deck 10, it’s a wonderful place to eat outside (filet and prawns cooked at the table on a hot rock was my favorite) without getting badly beaten by the sun thanks to a quartet of trees and a giant overhead pergola.
The S.A.L.T. Lounge
Was our favorite watering hole on Silver Dawn, yet Dawn’s version was more speakeasy-sized. Ray’s was far larger and boasted a fantastic guitarist (Lucas) and mixologist (Cham).
La Dame
Upscale, great service and delicious food at an extra charge (we didn’t even mind that we were dining snug to the windowsill in Livorno staring into a nautical junkyard of rusting boat hulls).
Silver Note
Soft jazz from an immensely talented singer and pianist. Dinner was good and the corner bar echoes the design of The Hassler Hotel’s tiny Salon Eva.
The Trio of Glass Elevators
Yes, I’m mentioning the elevators! They were a marvel of engineering, rarely crowded and swiftly carrying passengers along the ship’s port side and providing gorgeous views all the while.
The Pool and Jacuzzi
Didn’t use either but they’re unique, well-designed and worth mentioning. One apiece on the ship, the pool’s offset, close to one side, while the jacuzzi’s butted fully against the ship’s side one deck above, giving it an infinity-styled effect against a glass wall that offers spectacular ocean views.
The 10th Floor Rear Deck Bar
Sitting and watching the golden Mediterranean sunset while listening to the ship’s guitarist play Tom Petty’s “Free Falling” as you sip a Negroni gives one that “everything is right in this world” feeling (if just for this moment).
What could use improvement -
The Third Floor Lounge
Drab and lifeless, it’s a product of design and aesthetics and actually led me to feel bad for the hugely-talented violinist who plays there regularly. The environment was not conducive to spending time there (was almost always near-empty whenever I looked) when so many other lounges were more attractive and thus it could stand to be redesigned.
The Fitness Center
While its giant picture windows gave it a wonderfully open feeling not seen on most ships, it could have been larger and house a more extensive variety (and higher quality) equipment.
The Shops
There’s just not much inventory from which to choose.
One side note - we chose to use the floor’s laundromat for our limited needs, which had twin Miele washing machines and dryers. On the whole, access was relatively easy. Also, the ship's PA can be very hard to understand - turn on the bridge monitor in your suite to land better audio on the announcements.
THE SHIP GRADE: A-
THE SUITE -
Our cabin was a premium veranda suite that was upscale, clean and positioned nicely as there was an equipment space to one side of our balcony, so more private (and less noise). Nice, powerful rain shower, white marble in the bathroom and a minibar that was consistently stocked with champagne, Baileys, water and pretty much anything we wanted care of our wonderful butler Jobert. He made sure the caviar flowed, that we got what we requested in a timely fashion and even decked-out our room in celebratory anniversary stylings (our 42nd). The room was always turned down or made up in record time, which was a nice bonus.
Also a plus was the suite’s information system, which resembled a Samsung Frame TV. It’s a great, convenient and fairly reliable way to get information on tours, events, messaging and the like.
WiFi was broken into two plans – paid and free. We opted for free which wasn’t terrible, yet tended to gum-up a bit now and then.
THE SUITE GRADE: A
THE PORTS/THE EXCURSIONS -
The voyage begins. There is no better moment than that first eve when the horn sounds, the lines are cast off, the thrusters churn and the hull begins to rumble as we set out to sea, this time bound for Palma de Mallorca and points beyond.
Palma de Mallorca (Excursion)
Bike tour around the city. Downright scary at times (and I’m a seasoned cyclist) yet fun. Did this once 11 years ago.
Marseille (Excursion)
Inland tour of Chateauneuf du Pape and Avignon. Was tremendously excited about visiting birthplace of my favorite vino. A long, long day and learned a great deal from a great sommelier about proper tasting, the physiology of grapes, soil and the like, followed by lunch in the courtyard of a storybook French chateau with a friendly canine, and finally a stroll around Avignon.
Monte Carlo
A word of caution - if you visit Monte Carlo within the two weeks prior to the big Grand Prix, realize that getting from point A to B can be a challenge. Chain link fencing everywhere, a phalanx of cables, the cacophony of forklifts and jackhammers, all set against a backdrop of a harbour packed with the world’s most spectacular superyachts. We chose to cab-it to nearby Eze and enjoy a meal at Chateau Eze and dessert on La Chèvre d’Or’s terrace. Views to die for and a sanctuary from the crowds. Ritz Carlton’s Evrima sits anchored off our starboard side.
Portofino
Wickedly-crowded yet we hike up the hill that borders this gorgeous little harbour to the Belmond Splendido Hotel for wine and cheese and then back down for a lunch of giant prawns at the harbor’s edge. The water is astonishingly clear! Also hiked up to the castle and lighthouse, but I’d pass on those next time around.
Livorno (Excursion)
Inland tour of Super-Tuscan wineries and it was very, very good and led by a wonderful guide. Livorno tends to be a port town and launching point for tours to places like Florence, Pisa, Lucca and others. This provided us with something different in a beautiful setting as we’ve been to these towns many times before. Truly wonderful tour.
Salerno (Excursion)
Another wine tour, this one to a quaint little farm that was good fun.
THE EXCURSIONS GRADE: B-
THE PORTS GRADE: A-
THE STAFF -
The staff - I honestly can’t think of any staff-member who didn’t greet us with a smile, who slacked on their job and who didn’t make us feel wholly welcome. Standouts include Chandinee and Terrance in the Marquee, Joey in Atlantide, Lucas the guitarist along with bartenders Cham and Ele in S.A.L.T. Bar, and of course Jobert our Butler and Peter our cabin steward. All put forth loads of extra effort to make our stay a top-shelf one.
THE STAFF GRADE: A
DISEMBARKATION/POST CRUISE -
This is where things got a smidge ugly. Disembarkation in Civitavecchia was drizzly, wet mess….at least it became so once our feet hit the shore. The ground crew outside of customs seemed disorganized and from the time we stepped off the ship to the time we entered our hotel was perhaps 2.5 hours as our bus turned out to be the last to leave the port and we were bound for not one but two different hotel drop-offs in Rome.
As for the post cruise hotel, the Sina Bernini Luxe Hotel felt like something that was not in keeping with the five-star level Silversea seemingly strives for. The room felt worn, its closet comprised of shelves hidden by a thin, transparent curtain hanging from a rod and, oddly enough, it was both very cold and so damp that the bedding literally felt moist.
This was my biggest - and perhaps only - real complaint about this trip. To end such a high-end voyage in this manner leaves one with a bad taste. The five-star experience should carry through to both the head-end and tail-end hotels.
With that said, our Silversea rep at the hotel was very nice, our transfer to the airport the next day was great (upscale private van that actually hit the road a few minutes early) and a helpful rep met us at the airport to guide us to the terminal ticketing.
POST-SAILING GRADE: C-
This was Silversea Sailing number six for us, with each sailing being on a different ship (Spirit, Whisper, Shadow, Wind, Dawn and Ray). I liked Ray certainly as much as (if not more than) Dawn, save for the S.A.L.T. Lab restaurant. Dawn’s S.A.L.T. counterpart’s food felt on the whole more regional in menu selection (which, after all, is the conceptual theme of the restaurant) and the layout felt larger with more space between the tables.
A FEW RANDOM POINTERS FOR FUTURE SILVER RAY SAILERS -
A few random pointers for those who’ve never sailed on Ray but are booked for future voyages -
In The Marquee, the center sofa seats under the trees are (in our minds) the best, yet look to the sky above before sitting to see where the sun will be as the sofa you sit in can be affected by the light.
Loved the touchless door entry systems. Don’t push - merely wave your hand in front of the sensor and let the motors do the work. Same with the elevators.
There’s an rear interior corner table at La Terrazza next to the windows on the port side that is very private with great views and it’s often available.
If there is a flamenco show on the pool deck during your itinerary, make sure to catch it!
Try to make sure your La Dame reservation is on a sea day as, if you’re scheduled while in port, you run the risk of staring into the uglies of a working port while dining on canard confit and toasting with caviar and Dom Perignon.
You can, in fact, get Bulgari soaps and shampoos from your butler if you ask.
There will be a dead-time on disembarkation day that lies in between when you must vacate your suite (8:00am) and when you must vacate the ship (for us it was 9:30am). Spend it on the almost empty deck 10 outside at the rear of the ship as most tend to congregate on decks three and four in the lounges.
When it comes to packing, we fly our essentials with us in a piggyback of one carry-on and one small bag apiece, then check one shared large bag between us for items we can survive without. We met a very nice couple who tried Fedexing their luggage (which is an option) and to the best of my knowledge it never arrived throughout the course of the entire voyage.
If one does laundry in the laundromat, please be considerate of the others behind who are waiting for the machines by setting a timer on your phone to coincide with the machines so clothes can be promptly emptied from the W/D and others can step in and use them without waiting. Otherwise, there’s always the valet service.
When reserving a room, take into account the routing of the voyage and try and choose a suite that primarily faces landside as that’s where you’ll most likely get the best views. Also, note before booking what’s directly above and below the suite – you don’t want to be underneath the clanking weights of the fitness center or a pounding bass drum of a club if you value your solitude.
Do the bridge tour if you get the chance. Sign up at the concierge on deck 4 and the very personable Captain will tell you everything you want to know about his swanky, tech-heavy ride as you watch from a bird’s eye perspective. No pics, please.
While you may be frustrated trying to book spa treatments online pre-cruise (my app told me that massages were available on specific days, yet when attempting to lock in a booking, somehow the availability would then subsequently vanish), they can often be worked out in the spa on embarkation day once on board.
On the off-chance that you’re ever in Monte Carlo, note that Ubers aren’t allowed to pick-up there. You must call a taxi by a phone in port to leave the city and go to points beyond, yet Ubers are, in fact, allowed to pick up from places beyond and bring back into Monte Carlo. Eze is around 20 minutes away from the pier.