Our fabulous holiday began with a cocktail reception at the Hilton in Buenos Aires where we had the first chance to meet our fellow passengers.
There was an early start the next morning, with our 3am coach departure to the airport for our charter flight to Ushuaia.
The onboard snack from Paula’s Pantry and Atlas toiletries bag were thoughtful touches.
In Ushuaia, we boarded coaches for a fascinating tour of Tierra del Fuego National Park, with short walks, a visitor centre and several photo opportunities as we learned about the history and wildlife of this region.
It was rounded off with French cuisine at Chez Manu, overlooking Ushuaia and our first glimpse of Atlas Ocean Voyages’ World Navigator.
Embarking the ship was smooth, check-in was easy (with a glass of champagne) and the lifeboat drill was friendly and efficient. It felt luxurious from the start.
Luckily we had good weather as we crossed the Drake Passage so we reached Antarctica in one day instead of two – so there was a bonus day of excursions on Zodiacs.
The sea day involved informative lectures about the region, plus fitting our waterproof jackets and boots in the mudroom, and biosecurity measures, checking we didn’t bring any seeds stuck in Velcro or have litter in our pockets.
The itinerary was “Captain’s Choice” each day – it would be different for each cruise, according to weather and ice conditions and where the best chance to spot wildlife would be.
We had six days in the Antarctica peninsula, with two Zodiac excursions per day, either safaris to spot wildlife and landscapes, or landings.
There were 157 passengers on our cruise, divided into four groups so we would be called at different times for getting ready in the mudroom and embarking on our Zodiac trips.
We also spotted plenty of wildlife from the decks of the ship – orcas, humpbacks, penguins and even an albatross.
The expedition team members on the Zodiacs were entertaining and informative, pointing out penguins (gentoo, Adelie and chinstraps), seals (fur, elephant, Weddell and leopard), humpback and minke whales, a variety of seabirds, and talking about the mountains, history and ice formations (glaciers and icebergs).
At Damoy Point, we visited an old British hut for scientists. It is now a museum, preserving food, books, equipment, clothes and beds from the 1980s.
Back on board, there were daily recaps and lectures from the expedition team to learn more about the flora and fauna, history, geography, oceanography, regulations in the region and the Antarctic Treaty System – again, very interesting and often light-hearted and fun (the mechanics of penguin guano was a highlight). Their passion for their specialist areas really shone through.
The team also talked about threats from climate change, microplastics and overfishing of krill.
One day coincided with International Women’s Day so we heard about the history of women in Antarctica and how recently this continent has been explored.
The crew were attentive and efficient too, learning our names and preferences quickly.
There was fine dining in the restaurant, plus plenty of other places to eat and drink (Paula’s Pantry, the Dome and Lounge, plus room service, which we didn’t try).
It was very relaxed and informal and no one minded when there was an announcement about whales being spotted near the ship, and the diners dashed out on deck to watch the wildlife.
The passengers were a very chatty, friendly bunch, mostly Americans, with some Brits, Canadians and other nationalities. They were a mix of couples, family groups, friends and solo travellers.
We were lucky with the weather, often with blue skies and sometimes early morning mists.
Another highlight was the polar plunge. Like others, I was nervous beforehand but so glad afterwards that I did it (and we relaxed in the hot tubs to share the experience!).
We didn’t do the kayaking but those who did said it was definitely worth doing. There weren’t enough takers for the overnight camping experience during our cruise.
The cabin had a very comfy bed, lots of sockets/USB ports, a Nespresso machine and kettle, L’Occitane toiletries and a pair of binoculars to borrow during the cruise.
The entertainment programme featured singing performances by the cruise director and duo Casablanca, plus a crew talent show.
The auditorium screened TV shows, documentaries and films about Antarctica’s history, wildlife and science.
We never had time for the sauna and spa; we made it to the gym a few times (it never seemed busy); and there was a small shop selling souvenirs and clothes.
Our final two days were spent crossing the Drake Passage, with plenty more lectures, which can also be viewed on your cabin TV.
The sea was more choppy heading back but stugeron was recommended to tackle seasickness.
Other activities include bridge and galley tours plus a murder-mystery challenge.
I felt quite emotional during the final recap, with the expedition team members sharing their favourite moments from the cruise.
I’d suggest flying direct to Buenos Aires, to avoid the stress of potentially missing a connecting flight, or arriving early and exploring Buenos Aires, or booking one of the add-on pre-cruise trips offered by Atlas.
The only grumble we heard from passengers was the fact that they quickly used up the 1GB of free wifi and found the internet package expensive.